This trip started as a set of sad eyes from Raz, and the phrase "I miss driving with my sweetie." Knowing we had a bare 2 days of road time for a drop-of-the-hat trip, I whipped out the New Mexico tourism page. The benefit of living in the middle of the state with the fifth-largest footprint in America, is that there are a ton of places in that state to explore. The detriment is that getting out of that state requires a plane ticket or an extra 2 days drive-time.
With the electronic equivalent of throwing darts at a map initiated, I followed random links until something I'd not heard of popped up. Turns out we have a whole National Monument in northern NM of which Raz and I had been completely unaware. Thus, Capulin Volcano National Monument became the destination. A quick search of the geocaching webste revealed earthcaches and virtuals galore! If we haven't explained these before, they are cache types with no physical log to sign. Instead, they generally require the cacher to explore the area, read informative signage, and do some thought-work about the natural or man-made wonder being visited. The caches for this site required a trek to the summit of the remaining cinder cone, and a full tour of the rim. The winding trail down to the crater floor was not required, but having been unsure if we had read all the signs needed for the caches, I made Raz climb down with me anyway.
The cinder cone rises lonely and dark from a plane of scrub and with a perfect crater scooped out of one side like it was some ancient rock-eating titan's mousse cup. The stark contrasts of the mountain, and the vast, wild vistas from the top are a photographer's dream. The variety of geology and ecology on display, and the care with which all of it is explained on the small, wind-resistant signs around the rim was worth the drive, hike, and asthma attack necessary to see it all. Of course, that's likely because I am a giant nerd, and a chance at education in a beautiful place is worth enduring just about anything.
Word to the wise, though, if you go in March as we did, prepare to hunker down against some fierce surface winds. May is a milder month wind-wise, and also the month when you're likely to see some really impressive displays of migratory wildlife. Even in the bleak, screaming winds of early spring, though, there's a majesty and wonder about this volcano and a quaintness about the nearest town that is well worth the long, winding drive up I-25 to visit, even for just a weekend.
Raton
Ah, Raton, always an adorable small town. Glad we upgraded to the Subaru Outback, or we would never have made it to the top of Goat Hill to find the little cache with the great view up behind the Raton city sign. Nor would we have made it anywhere near the top of the unnamed hill nearby to be chased about by dust devils while picking up travel bugs.
We had to cancel the reservation at Travelodge due to their having no Internet. Turned out to be quite fortuitous though, as we stayed at Hearts Desire B&B. The B&B is an absolutely gorgeous Victorian house that’s a little like a cross between a museum and an antique store. Barb, the owner/proprietor is gregarious as well as kind, though watch prices carefully when she’s ringing them up, because she alternately forgot and increased charges. We picked up some gorgeous English plates and a painting for the downstairs bathroom. Barb was a teacher, as well as running an antique shop with her mother (before her mother’s passing). Barb also does travel planning/educational guiding, likely to support her travel ambitions and clock collecting, since being a retired teacher and B&B proprietor in Raton, NM can’t be all that lucrative.
Apparently, since last time we were in Raton, the Ice House restaurant closed and re-opened under new management. Thus, we explored Bruno’s Pizza and Wings instead. For future reference, 15 wings and a large pizza is just too much food for 2 people! Go for a medium pizza. The Green Chile Chicken Alfredo pizza is great, and the Caribbean Jerk wings are the best: sweet, savory, spicy and somehow all of that works together. The garlic parm wings are awesome, too, but the 5-alarm are really only 3-alarm and the taste is just straight tobasco.
We cleared out all the existent caches, so if we come back for the adorability of Raton, we’ll need to give ourselves time to cache in Red River and Cimmaron.
Las Vegas
Why on earth would a university town roll up its sidewalks on Sundays? A question for the locals next time we’re in Las Vegas, NM. At the plaza, the only store open was “The Coffee Shop” which makes a mean “Rabbit Milk Latte”, basically a honey and vanilla concoction. They sell “smoothies” but don’t let that description fool you, they’re really chunkies! The baristas likely did not know how to use their immersion blenders, thus rendering a sludge of ice, pineapple and other crunchy bits that could not be pulled through a straw. A walk through down town revealed a tiny, one-screen theater and a BBQ Burgers & Beer joint open today and nothing else. We left ourselves a few caches to come back for. We should just do so not on a Sunday!
Santa Fe
Santa Fe is every bit as surprising as Albuquerque with what nifty new things are being introduced. This time we discovered Clafoutis, an amazing French Bakery and breakfast/brunch spot. The eponymous custard cake with berries was wonderful, not too sweet, nor too tart. The plum tart was every bit as good, with light, battery, flaky pastry. We breakfasted on the French Plate, which was good, though the brie doesn’t hold a candle to our favorite goat brie from home. The baguette, however, was as close to Paris as we’re likely to find in NM. Absolutely awesome, crispy crust and soft, flavorful crumb. The crepes and almond croissant are also well worth the drive up, though next time we need to try the eclairs… We also tried the Tune-Up Café, a fusion place with some New Mexican, a lot of burger options, and a Salvadoran flare. The lamb burger is smoky while retaining its essential lambiness. The popusas are good, but we’ve never had a bad one, so not sure that’s any measure of the restaurant. Neither of us were particularly fond of the curtido. It’s a dish halfway between sourkraut and coleslaw, with less flavor than either. Mixed with the arugula accompanying the burger, it was a decent salad… if one likes that sort of thing. Next time we should try the bison burger.
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