The debate was long and involved for 4 v. 5 stars. In favor of the fifth star was the most perfect steak we have ever had the pleasure of tasting, and the ambiance. Raton is an old Northern New Mexican mining town, and the Ice House is exactly that, the town's original housing for ice deliveries shipped to the high desert by train. This was the vital center of the town, and to pay proper homage to such an institution, the new business filling its cavernous boot needs to be vital, vibrant, and a little daring.
The Historic Ice House Restaurant is all of these. It's focus is on barbecue, and really, what is more western than that? I had a half-rack of the awesomely porky ribs. It needs to be said that the spicing and smoking of the rib meat was out of this world, and the meat itself was fall-off-the-bone tender. Yet, like all Western style bbq ribs, they were a little dry on their own to encourage the pairing with the restaurant's signature sauce. The Ice House has 4 or 5 incredibly unique sauces. I got a chuckle out of the Oso Sweet, which was everything a bear would put into a sauce. There was a mild smokiness to the sauce, a definite honey sweetness, and the vague hint of juniper in the flavor. Juniper isn't often ijn the flavor profile of bbq, but it should be, since it's an excellent flavor enhancer. There was also a blueberry bbq sauce, but even the spicy offering was decidedly sweet. Sweet and fruity sauces do pair well with pork, but I was really craving something more in the vinegary taste profile to compliment the spices already present in that tasty pork.
We also tried the jalapeno straws, which are a novel concept of breaded and fried jalapeno strips. We liked the crisp heat of the jalapenos themselves, and the accompanying ranch dressing was so darned good that the better-half, who hates ranch, actually loved it. The only thing not ideal was the southern-style breading, which was a little to thick for the jalapenos. I do get the purpose (the extra starch helps cut the heat), but there's room for improvement.
As to the steak, it was Raz's choice, and so I only got a few tiny bites. Those bites were enough to make me want to box my rack of ribs and order the steak instead. It's difficult to describe what true perfection in a steak is, but you know it the moment you sink your teeth in. That steak was perfect, in every possible way. From flavor balance, to juiciness, to an ideal medium grilling. Next time we're in Raton, I know where I'm eating and what.