OK, so I'm super behind on writing about the experience in Tarifa, but since I can still recall every detail like it was last night, I can safely declare it unforgettable. 

Let's start with ambiance. We wandered down the narrow, twisting, lonely streets of the old city, with high, solid, whitewashed walls towering to either side as the sun was creeping to the far horizon, feeling like the only people in the world. We were beginning to be worried that we had missed it when we happened upon the open, steam-punk style gates in the wide, inviting doorway set into the wall. Our host in Tarifa advised that we would likely need a reservation, but we tried our luck since the visit was both early in the dinner service and just before the officially recognized beginning of tourist season. We were seated almost immediately, and our table set with a lovely bowl of the bright green olives that this region grows in abundance. I'm fairly certain I've never had better, fresher olives in my life, and that set high expectations for the rest of the meal. 

We started with the Papas Bravas, since every guide for visiting Spain mentions the dish. You can get Papas Bravas in the States, so we knew we would be expecting fried potatoes topped with crema and drizzled with a picante salsa of some nature. One bite of the little square-cut home-fries dripping with the Silos 19's take on the silky crema and smoky, spicy hot sauce was enough to explain why this dish is near the top of things everyone must try in Spain. We cleaned every last morsel out of that bowl and considered calling over a server to cancel the rest of the order in favor of two more servings. It was just that good.

We were still debating the wisdom of more Papas Bravas when our actual dinner order arrived. We had both decided to go for grilled octopus, knowing that it would be far fresher than any we might find at home, and excited for the local take on the spicing. I nearly wept with joy at the first taste, and Raz declared the dish better than any he had tried in the world. I was too speechless to agree until I had savored every last perfectly marinated and grilled piece. Now, writing about it months after the fact, my mouth still waters. 

We left a completely packed restaurant just as darkness fell on Tarifa, and completely understood why our host had recommended Silos 19. We make the same recommendation.