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La Patrascu

Bucharest, Romania

August 18, 2018

We arrived sometime after 10 pm to a completely packed lot. Even the sidewalks were completely covered in parked patrons or residents of the nearest blocs. Fortunately, the local in our party knew someone in the bloc who was willing to let us block in their van with our car, else we may have found ourselves still circling to park until after midnight. To say this place is popular with the locals would be understating. We wended our way through small lakes in the parking area while trying to reach the covered areas of the restaurant before being completely soaked through by the driving rain. Yet some of the outdoor tables were still occupied despite the weather when we arrived. We were not so brave, so we waited in a narrow atrium area until an indoor table was vacated, then swooped down on it even before it could be bussed so that we might be insured a seat out of the rain.

 

As the wafting smoke from another table in the dining area set me into great, gasping coughs, I could only grouse about how tobacco smoke is a difficult allergy to work around in Eastern Europe. For anyone who suffers the same, I highly recommend choosing a warm, clear evening to visit La Patrascu so that you can sit outside and not run into the tobacco issue. Fortunately, the breezes shifted direction soon after I started coughing, and blew in clean, flower-scented air from the patio greenery which forced the clouds of smoke out the open windows on the side of the smokers opposite our table. As I do not speak Romanian myself, and I neglected to have the native speakers in the party ask, I am not aware if there is a dedicated nonsmoking section. If there is not one yet, it should be highly considered.

 

I thought that the drama leading up to order placement was something the experience would have difficulty living up to, but even chain-smoking restaurant patrons considered, the overall experience gets a 5-star rating from me.

 

I immediately forgot my earlier discomfort with the first sip of my Ciorbă de fasole cu afumătură (bean soup with smoked meat).  My companions tell me this is a very traditional Romanian dish. The base was thick and hearty, just short of being a bisque, and the beans, meat, and veg were decidedly noticeable chunks. All-together, this had the mouth-feel of the best stew ever, and the flavor was bold, savory, smoky, and slightly sour. My taste buds performed not simple arias in praise of the flavor, but the whole the 1812 Overture with every bite. I very nearly wept at the realization that I was getting on a plane the following day and not certain when or if I would have a chance to eat this soup again. My better-half proclaimed La Patrascu’s Ciorbă de burta his new favorite, and after three bites began contemplating cancelling our order to just have a few more bowls of it.

 

The beautiful, longing melancholy of the last spoon of my ciorbă was erased by joy and wonder, however, when the platou 2 persoane (2-person grilled platter) my party of three opted to share arrived to the table. Grilling perfect meat may seem a simple matter when you are throwing 4th of July hotdogs on charcoal in the back yard, but grilling the entirety of a farmyard to perfection and having them all ready at the same time, along with appropriately matched veg and garnish is an impressive feat. I am still unsure if La Patrascu has an external supplier for their mici (short sausages of lamb and beef spiced unlike any other), or if they make it in-house. It doesn’t really matter, though, it’s still my new favorite. 

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